Antique of the Week--English Garden Collar

Hi everyone!  This week, Jennifer from Starched and Crumpled is sharing a collar with a sweet variety of floral motifs and filled with a tiny picot ground.  The motifs include Iris, Fuchsia, Lily of the Valley, and Irish Rose, and the collar has a traditional scallop edge.

An overal view of the collar.

Collar as it would have been worn

Central Iris motif with Clones Knot accent, and a good view of the filling ground

Bouquet of Irish Rose

Lily of the Valley over the shoulder

Translation-Hardouin Volume 6, Lace with 3 Motifs, Carnation

IC Abbreviations
pc = padding cord (also known as packing cord)
p = picot ( here, 5ch 1dc in same stitch)

Instructions:
Make 15ch, skip 1^st ch, dc in rest (14dc).

Pick up pc, and work round the “baguette” (i. e. bottom section) with 14 dc on each side and 5dc into the lower point, 1dc into the upper point.

1^st Central loop:  work 25dc on the pc alone. Pull on the cord to form the central loop (see picture) and join to flower with 1dc in the same stitch at the top end of the baguette, then 1 dc in next 2 stitches.

2^nd loop: make 36dc on the pc alone, turn and join with 1^st into the 2^nd st after the central loop, curving it to look as in picture.

Turn, go back round loop, working in back loop of stitches and making picots:
(6dc, p) x 5, 6dc.

Make a 2^nd row of dc all round the baguette, still using pc, and with 3dc at the point.

Flower petal 1:  make 25dc on pc alone, tighten cord and join with 1 stitch between the first and second picots.

Petals 2, 3, 4:  make 21dc on pc alone, tighten cord and join between picots.

Petal 5:  make 25dc on pc alone, tighten cord, and join between loop and flower base.

Continue round baguette, in back loop of stitch:  (4dc, p) x 3, 4dc.

Stem:  45dc on pc alone, return with dc in back loop of stitch, tighten pc slightly to give a curve to the stem.

Continue round other side of baguette:  (4dc, p) x 3, 4dc 

Work round the 5 petals:
1^st and last petals:  4dc, (p, 5dc) x 4, 4dc
Skip the last stitch of the petal as well as the joining st and the 1^st of the next petal, and tighten the pc a little after each petal.

Round the 3 other petals work 3dc, (p, 4dc) x 3, p, 3dc

After the 5th petal cut and finish ends.
--by Sally M.

Translation–Hardouin Volume 1, No. 4, La Pensee

Pansy

Materials

No 40 thread: Coats, DMC, Lizbeth etc
1.00mm hook
No 10 thread for padding cord

Can be worked in any size thread from No 10 to No 80, with appropriate hook and padding cord

English terminology

Standard abbreviations

pc=padding cord

Downloaded from http://www.antiquepatternlibrary.org
Worth a look to print out the photo, even if you don’t want the French text.

Wind the padding cord twice round the handle of a crochet hook, pencil etc.

Pick up working thread and make a slip stitch. Remove wraps carefully and work 38-40 trebles over the pc, ss into first dc to close the ring.

(Note: Mme Hardouin recommends a special treble when working over pc: work off 1 loop, then 3 loops. As she says, it covers the pc better.)

Working through both loops of each stitch over padding cord:

1^st Crescent 10 dc over the first 10 stitches on the ring,
40 stitches on pc alone, turn the work back (to the right – see photo) and attach with pc by doing a dc in the first of the 10 stitches that you have just done on the ring - work the dc through both loops of the stitch.

(You will need to twist the 40sts/pc so that the top of the sts face outward – see photo)

Drop the padding cord, turn, and over the 40 sts on the pc:
1dc, 1htr, 36 tr, 1htr, 1dc, turn
Repeat this row.
Pick up the pc again, working 1dc into the same place where pc was dropped,
10dc over the first 8 dc of the crescent.
Then make 6 picots with 5 sts between.
Finish with dc in the rest of the stitches, increasing by 2 sts.

Before beginning this last row it is vital to tighten the pc so that the crescent will lie flat, otherwise your motif will not have a good shape.

 2^nd Crescent

Again work 10 dc on the centre and begin the 2^nd crescent with 40dc on the pc, turn and attach with 1dc to the 12^th stitch of the 1^st crescent. Turn and do 1 row of 3ch 1dc in the 2^nd, turn and do a 2^nd row the same, putting the hook into each hole; do 2 rows more, making a total of 4 rows of net. Take up the pc again, make 4dc in the 1^st two holes, then alternately 2dc, 1 picot, 2dc and 4dc. After the 7^th picot work 4dc in the remaining holes.

3^rd Crescent Do 10dc into the ring and make a 3^rd crescent like the 1^st, attach to the 12^th stitch of the 2^nd crescent. After this last crescent, do a few sts on the ring with the pc, and do the stalk by working 60 dc on the pc and returning with trebles, still on the pc. Join the stalk to the ring, make a crown and a few dc more on the remaining sts of the ring. Cut and finish off the pc by stitching under the 1^st crescent.Crown:  Dc over pc with a picot every 5 or 6 stitches. It is attached to the motif only once, about halfway round the motif, opposite the stem.

Translated by Sally M.

Translation-Hardouin Volume 1, No. 8, Le Pneu

I used a #14 hook with #80 thread over two strands of #10 for the PC. Diameter of my flower is about 1.5 inches.

Rough Translation: (UK terms in parentheses) 
Make a circle with the PC by winding it around your hook shaft 25 or 30 times. (I wound it maybe 12 times)

R1:Fill the circle with as many sc (dc) as possible.

R2: Ch5, 1tr (dtr) in stitch, ch1, 1 tr (dtr) in next stitch, repeat italicised directions around, finishing with ch1, slip stitch into 4th chain of beginning 5ch.

R3: Over PC, 3 sc (dc) in each ch1 space.

R4: Over PC, work the spirals. Make a loop with the cord, working 20 sc (dc) around loop. Make one sc (dc) in the stitch below, tighten loop and make 4 sc (dc), skip 3 sc (dc) make one sc (dc) in the stitch below. Repeat italicised directions, spiraling around. Stop when you have 10 open stitches, now make the stem. You shouldn’t have to turn the PC. This round was confusing for me, so I am not sure if I’ve explained it correctly, but the result is nice :)

Stem: Continue, on the PC only, 75 sc (dc), making a loop halfway down and securing it with a slipstitch. ch2, turn and sc (dc) back up the stem, working around the loop, securing with a slipstitch, finishing at the top, with a couple of sc (dc) on the flower round.

By Kim